Minimax 12" Tersa Combination Jointer and Planer FS 30C
|Manufacturer Part:||EMT ID:|
- 4.8HP Single-Phase (230v) Motor
- Overall Table Length: 59.75"
- Max Jointing Width: 12"
- Max Planer Working Thickness: 9"
- 4.8HP Single-Phase (230v) Motor
- Precision-Ground Cast Iron Tables
- 3-Knife "Tersa" Quick-Change Cutter Head
- American-Style Jointer Guard
- Quick-Tilting Jointer Fence
- Jointer Tables Open Away From Operator
- Two Independent Dust Collection Ports
- Tool Set & Owner's Manual
|Overall Table Length||59.75"|
|Maximum Jointing Width||12"|
|Cutter Head Speed||5,200 RPM|
|Fence Dimensions||6.0" x 51.0"|
|Table Size||12" x 22.0"|
|Maximum Working Thickness||9.0"|
|Minimum Working Thickness||0.125"|
|Maximum Stock Removal||1/8"|
|Feed Speed||23 FPM|
- Overall Dimensions: 32" x 28" x 59"
- Base Dimensions: 26" x 19"
- Weight: 595 lbs
Electrical & Dust Extraction Requirements
- Single-Phase: 30 AMPS (230v) 10-Gauge Copper THNN Wire
- Dust Collection Outlet Diameter: 4.75"
- Minimum Recommended Dust Extraction Volume: 600 CFM
Optional Accessories & Tooling
- Cast Iron Horizontal Mortiser & Chuck
- Chrome, H/S Steel, and Tri-Metal Tersa Knives
- Mortising Bits
48 × 48 × 65 in
This is our first experience with a jointer/planer so your mileage may vary.
TLDR: I recommend you buy a more expensive model with a rubber feed roller on the planer (if you can afford it) but good machine for the price. If you decide to buy, read below for some tips on this model.
First off, we sold a Woodmaster to buy this. We were only using the Woodmaster to plane boards so not a direct comparison. However, if I had to do it over again, I would buy a jointer right away and skip the Woodmaster. We need to straighten every board we buy so a jointer is the right tool for the job.
The Tersa system is worth it. We did have a problem with the blades getting bent. This was due to planing a very thin board with a knot in it. The board exploded and bent the blades. We didn't realize the problem for several hours of looking because having a Tersa means you don't need to adjust the blades. Eventually we figured it out and bought new blades. Shame on us, once we got the new blades we bent the old ones straight and now they're fine. Hopefully knowing this will save you a lot of time.
This model has a steel feed roller with teeth. If a piece of wood gets stuck while planing, the feed roller puts a scallop in the top side of the board. Use turtle wax about once a day to keep the wood from getting stuck while feeding. In our experience that eliminates the stuck boards completely.
This machine does not snipe every board but it does snipe most boards. You need to cut your pieces about four and a half inches long, or even better, plane full boards and then cut to length. In the beginning, this seemed like a huge deal because we were cutting and then planing. Once we switched to planing first, now it's not an issue. We've since found out that this is how virtually every pro does it, so again, take our experience with a grain of salt.
After about three months of research, I can tell you that, knowing what I know now, I would have bought a more expensive model with a rubber feed roller on the planer. I believe a rubber feed roller would reduce or eliminate snipe and allow us to feed more than one board at a time. That would have been worth it for our process. However, at this time, it isn't worth upgrading because it's a fine machine.